SILK CLUTCH BAG WITH CARTIER LONDON ART DECO ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND, BLACK ENAMEL, SILVER, WHITE GOLD CLASP, CIRCA 1925-30

Rectangular clutch bag, the white and gold silk with an Indian floral motif, the Art Deco rotating silver bowtie shaped clasp from Cartier London enameled black, the ends applied with a tubular rock crystal motif held in place with a white gold staple set with old-mine cut diamonds, the white gold center motif also set with old-mine cut diamonds. Silk lining inside. The interior with a mirror. signed ‘CARTIER’ (for the clasp) and ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ (for the bag) (on the inside lining) 16 x 24 cm circa 1925-30 in Cartier box Certificate of expertise by Alain Cartier, expert CNE, Paris and LAPADA, London, dated June 6, 2024 ln the first decade of the 20th century, the Maison Cartier offered its clientele precious accessories including handbags and purses with enameled frames. The hiring of Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier at the end of World War I led to Cartier’s expanding tremendously its handbag output in the 1920s especially clutch bags which were in fashion. Cartier Paris aimed at an increasing American clientele living inexpensively in France in the Art Deco years ‘the Swinging Twenties’, a clientele avidly seeking fun, chic, creative, and inexpensive items to wear in the day, or evening, in the bustling cafés and night clubs. Cartier’s clutch bags, some with minimal or even no jewelry, answered this demand. Many were given out by Cartier as prizes in sports competitions which served as a medium for Cartier’s promotion. Materials used included newly designed silk patterns, plain satins, antique brocade, or leather, crocodile, ostrich, suede etc. The clasps varied and were made of hardstones, or even natural materials like horn, ivory and tortoiseshell, and even precious and semi­precious stones, pearls and diamonds. Cartier London had its own designers and workshops and created and made jewellery and accessories following the style set by Cartier Paris. The bowknot motif was very much in vogue du ring the Belle Epoque and Cartier created many stomachers and countless brooches using that motif. Certain ideas never really die and the bowknot motif was adapted by Cartier in the Art Deco style in the 1920s and 30s onto accessories as we can see with this clasp.